Traje de Mestiza
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About this work
At the turn of the century, through the revolution against Spain and the Spanish–American War, Filipinos asserted themselves by crystallizing their identity in costume. For more than three hundred years, Filipinas wore plain wrap-around skirts (saya) fashioned out of opaque plaid or striped cotton and sinamay varieties, and the baro (blouse) fashioned out of sheer lace fabrics.
In 1898, Spain ceded the Philippines to the United States. From the Spanish colony, we moved into the American colonial era (1898–1946). This gave way to “Americana” in the Philippines, where Hollywood movies, musicals, and magazines were introduced. Inspired by Hollywood, Filipinos created a stunning costume called the “traje de mestiza.” Traje is the Spanish word for dress. Mestizo comes from the Latin word mixticius, meaning “mixed.” Roughly translated, traje de mestiza means mestiza dress.
The traje de mestiza was in fact the "Maria Clara", trimmed into a shapely modernity, with detailed embroidered skirts. The camisa became a clinging bodice, with delicate oversized lace bell-shaped sleeves. The saya became slimmer, burst out at the hem into a flare, and acquired a train (saya de cola, “skirt with a tail”), leading to the new look.
The gown became the star of the zarzuelas with all the glittering glamour of a beauty queen.